The plan was to hitchhike to Zújar, walk along the Embalse de Negratin and into Benamaurel, then depending on the time hitchhike to Cúllar and have a look there or back to Baza.
It was dark and cloudy in the morning and I wasn't really motivated to do anything. When I finally got myself going around 10:30 it even started drizzling a bit, but luckily not for long.
The Cerro Jabalcón was dangerously covered in clouds though as I walked along the road to Zújar.
As usual there was hardly any cars, but the second one picked me up, so I don't mind that. They guy told me that in April people from all the surrounding villages and towns climb the Cerro Jabalcón and celebrate a big fiesta there. Probably the most important part of it is the drinking, but it's supposed to remind of a final fight between Christians and the Moorish in the 15th century.
Had a cafe con leche in the silent-as-usual Zújar, where the houses were surprisingly colorful and neat. Then left the village towards the Jabalcón, walking on a dirt track through beautiful almond and olive groves, and soon saw the Embalso, which is the third biggest water reservoir in Europe, and a beautiful one as well.
The photos don't really show the whole picture. This sight made me once more realize how much I have missed so far by just hitchhiking from city to city. There's so many beautiful places in between and away from the big highways. And some things one can only see on foot - and not only see, but also smell, hear, feel.
When I reached the tarmac road that runs around almost the whole reservoir, the magic was kind of over. My mild hope for another coffee at the Baños de Negratin was disappointed, because the place was closed of course. I still had a snack enjoying the view, while some cats apparently waited for better times.
Continuing on the tarmac I got kind of bored, although the landscape stayed interesting. Those sandy hills looked like gigantic termite nests, and fascinating eagles were circling above it.
Almost ran out of water (I had only brought the 0,75l bottle) and it was still at least 10km of boring road walking until Benamaurel, so I decided to hitchhike if there ever was a car to come. Wondered if I would pick myself up if I saw me standing in the middle of nowhere with a stick, a plastic bag and pink stockings. One car drove buy, the guy inside vigorously shaking his head. Okay.
Some hundred meters after this I heard another car coming, which slowed down after it had already passed me. Probably the young Ecuadorian inside had to look twice before he realized that I'm not a scarecrow. He didnt go to Benamaurel but to Baza, but I went with him anyway.
Back in the hotel I had some tortilla with chorizo and cheese, heavenly, and lots of water. The sun came out half an hour ago, just in time for me to go out and see what Baza has to offer. I've read something about a Jewish quarter but don't really expect to find any remainings.
22:00
I feel a bit sick, and definitely too tired considering that my pensum wasn't that big today. Again I don't know for sure where I will sleep tomorrow and how much it will cost, and that is really annoying me and pulling me down.
Still I dragged myself outside again after an afternoon nap (guess that's what normal people do here during siesta, right?). Although Baza is definitely rich in history, most of the town consists of new but apparently uninhabited house blocks. Everything seemed closed, no matter of it's 3 or 8 pm.
This looks like a former train station:
The usual old men playing boccia:
Tried to capture how the setting sun painted the surroundings in a beautiful mix of orange, brown and blue:
And finally, on the way home from the supermarket, I stumbled upon a sign to the "Baños Arabes", which kind of rang a bell in my head.
Super fascinating and free to visit, this was a great way of concluding my stay in Baza. One could see the ceiling of the baths from above, because they now lie below the level of today's streets, and then go downstairs and see the rooms from the inside. The windows in the shape of the Star of David were usually covered with colored glass, which could be opened in order to regulate the air flow within the baths.
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